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For Gourd |
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Part 3 Macro -
Part 1 |
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You might be asking yourself why did the previous pages
have a dark background and this one a light background. I did it because with
a light background like this, it causes your iris to (in camera
vernacular/jargon) “stop down” giving you better visual acuity. Camera lenses
are like the iris in our eyes. The size of the iris, aperture or “stop” plays
a very large part in something called Depth of Field. Depth of field is
simply the amount of the area your lens can see that is in focus. Some of you
may have heard of F-stops. F-stops are preset aperture/opening sizes. The
higher the F-stop the smaller the opening and the lower the F-stop the bigger
the opening. Usually the high F-stops are used in very bright light and give
you a broad range of depth of field. The lower the F-stop is used under
lowlight conditions and your depth of field decreases. Just like our own
iris. In bright light it stops down to decrease the amount of light reaching
our retina and in low light it opens up to increase the amount of light
reaching our retina. The prize in macro photography is Depth of Field. The more
DOF you have, the more detailed the picture. |
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This
picture is the raw photo which became the one below. |
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The picture is of the reproductive parts of a Vigna
Caracalla. The size of the raw picture above is 20mb. The finished product is
1.2mb. I set my camera at F-8, backed up and deliberately lowered the EV more
than usual because of the very delicate parts like the hair on the style then
with software brightened it up again. I could have gotten closer with my
camera, but with macro, the closer you get the less depth of field. By
backing up a bit and shooting I gave the camera more leeway for DOF. This is why setting your camera to the highest pixel,
quality is so important in macro. My camera’s highest settings give me 20 meg
files which at 1 to 1 are huge. By being so huge I can crop out what I want
and it will still be in focus and clear. For macro, ideally you need a graphics program. Something
that will crop pictures, rotate and give you the ability to increase or
decrease contrast and create your own photos within the program via cut and
pasting. The one I use the most is an old version of Paint Shop Pro, version
7.02. I also have Photoshop and the zillions of plug-ins that go with it. I’m
a down and dirty kinda gal. I like software that is basic and easy to use
when it comes to photo manipulation. |
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The picture on the left is the raw picture that the picture
on the right was made from. With my software I flipped the picture over and cropped
it. As you can see, the subject of both images is the same size. The raw
picture was 20.2 megs and the finished product is 1.2 megs. Again, I cannot
stress enough that you need to set your camera to the most pixels it offers. |
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Focus |
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Good focus in macro can be a challenge. That is why
determining your camera’s focus threshold is so important. For a good macro
shot I always take a minimum of 3 shots of the same subject. It
usually works out to 4 or five. One close then one an inch or so farther
away, and another one an inch or so farther away. Digital’s auto focus can
sometimes work against you because there is too much other stuff around what
you want to take to focus on. The quick fix for that is to put a piece of
paper behind what you are shooting, focus, remove the paper and shoot. |
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Before your take your shot you should ask your self a few
questions. 1. What kind of light do I have. 2. What is in the background. 3. What do I ultimately want to do with this picture. Once you have your answers shoot! |
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The next
installment will be about cropping. |
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